Egypt Day 7: Mel's Memphean Malaise

As our final day in the Cairo area before heading south to Aswan, we wanted to make the most of it. Rather than head back into town again (as we'd be able to visit the Khan al-Khalili bazaar and the adjoining mosques when we came back through) we decided to drive out to Saqqara and Memphis, just a few kilometers south of Giza. Saqqara is home to several pyramids as well as the remains of Memphis, the original city of cities, so it promised to be a terrific trip. I was feeling far better at this point, and thus was willign to venture out of range of a comfortably sanitized toilet.

We met our driver, Hany, in the lobby at 8 AM for our drive to Saqqara. He drops us off in front of the step pyramid of Zoser, the first true pyramid constructed in Egypt (about a hundred years prior to those in Giza). Adjacent to the pyramid (which isn't open to tourists) is an unexpected treat - probably the first ever curved wall, constructed around the same time as the pyramid (approx. 2650 B.C.). I got some photos of the local camel jockeys waiting for tourists without them asking for baksheesh, so I already considered the day a success. We then proceeded to the tomb of Mereruka, the chief Wizier and overseer of priests for the Pharaoh Teti (2345-2323 B.C.). We picked up a guide along the way, but unlike the usual unhelpful folk this gentleman knew his history. Very useful stuff. Inside we see spectacular murals and hieroglyphics - why won't they let me take photos?! I promise not to use a flash...

Next up is the pyramid of Teti himself. We climb down a set of stairs into the pyramid to see the stone sarcophagus of Teti, left in its original position. Mel, who started exhibiting symptoms of heat exhaustion by the end of our visit to Saqqara, is now feeling particularly unwell, so we hustled through the remaining tomb, that of Ptah-hotep, who had sucha a fixation on nail care he had an entire mural in his tomb depicting himself getting a manicure. Given her state, we elect not to visit the tombs of the royal masters of hairdressers and manicurists (I'm a little sad about that - might've had some great photo opportunities, though it's tough to say if they'd have wanted to think about their work in the afterlife).

Next we trek out to the museum of Memphis. It seems the museum is all that's left of the city of cities, as the original has been completely razed over the years. Still, the museum contained several very nice items, including the enormous statue of Ramses II that it's reknowned for. You'll read plenty about Ramses II in these updates in the future - several of the major temples were at least partly constructed during his reign. For now, suffice to say he was larger than life, both in flesh and stone form. The statue was amazing, and the presentation allowed us to really check out the stonework from all angles. Its counterpart used to stand in Midan Ramses (Ramses Square) but is being relacated due to wear and tear - you can see it in scaffolding from the freeway.

Also in the museum is a remarkably preserved Alabaster sphinx, notable due to the shape it's in. Actually, one of the more interesting sights in the museum was the pile of hieroglyphic-inscribed rubble piled up behind a row of outdoor exhibits (did I mention the only element under a roof was the statue of Ramses II?) as if they simply didn't care to show it off. Only in Egypt.

We then return to the hotel to shower, change and check out of the hotel. It's around 1:30 PM, so we have a five hour wait until we're picked up for the train. Mel's not feeling up for much, so we while away the hours in the lobby playing games and reading. At 6:30, the driver arrives to take us to the train station. This is very early, as our train doesn't leave until 8 PM. As it turned out, our train was late as well, so we wound up standing (or, in Mel's case, crouching and trying not to vomit) for over an hour. About fifteen minutes before we boarded, our driver jokes about taking us to a friend's shop. At least, I tell myself he's joking.

We board the sleeper train without incident. The car is small, but modern and quite comfortable. The beds are folded up, but after dinner the porter lowers them and we discover they're shod in bright green and black plaid blankets, like a logger's shirt or a child's bedding. Very incongrous but kind of homey. Mel at this point is feeling pretty punky, so we call it a night and head for our separate bunks (note: discussing with your wife who gets the top bunk is a strange experience). We fall asleep listening to the rattle of the tracks and the occasional roar of a passing train.

Check out Mel's blog for the next installment: All Aboard (The 80's Greek Love Boat).